3D Printing Service Now Available!

JimsJump now can 3D print your PLA parts and provide modeling for parts up to 180 mm wide by 180 mm deep by 180 mm tall (or 7.08 inch wide by 7.08 inch deep x 7.08 inch tall).

See us on 3D Hubs here:
https://www.3dhubs.com/service/jimsjump

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Thanks!
Jim

Plastic Injection Molding Primer c/o the Engineer Guy

I love watching the engineering videos Bill Hammack produces and this one is no exception.  In this video, the Engineer Guy covers one of my favorite aspects of mechanical engineering design, Plastic Injection Molding.  While Bill doesn’t cover everything, this is a great primer for those wanting to learn more!  The follow on videos provide even more details and are suggested for any mechanical engineer (old and new) to watch.

What happens when an Engineer goes to hell?

 

An Engineer dies and goes to hell. He’s hot and miserable, so he decides to take action. The A/C has been busted for a long time, so he fixes it. Things cool down quickly.

The moving walkway motor jammed, so he unjams it. People can get from place to place more easily.

The TV was grainy and unclear, so he fixes the connection to the Satellite dish and now they get hundreds of high def channels.

One day, God decides to look down on Hell to see how his grand design is working out and notices that everyone is happy and enjoying umbrella drinks. He asks the Devil what’s going on?

The Devil replies, “Things are great down here since you sent us that engineer.”

“What?? An engineer? I didn’t send you one of those, that must have been a mistake. Send him back up right this minute.”

The Devil responds, “No way! We are going to keep our engineer. We like this guy.”

God demands, “If you don’t send him to me immediately, I’ll sue!”

The Devil laughs. “Where are YOU going to get a lawyer?”

To give original credit, was first seen here:
http://www.geeksaresexy.net/2015/11/22/story-an-engineer-goes-to-hell-instead-of-heaven/

Machine Screws Drill/Tap Info v1.5.9e update released!

Android app on Google Play

[Release]

Machine Screws Drill/Tap Info Version 1.5.9e update is released!

(Note versions 1.5.6 through 1.5.8 were beta versions)
A. Android 5.0 Support removed from 1.5.9b
causing crashes with license server
B. Security Updates
C. General bug fixes/code clean up
D. Database directory corrections
E. Bug Fixes for Large Screens
F. 1.5.9 <-> 1.5.9d more bug fixes
G. Fixed Screen formating issued
H. Corrections for #5-40 UNC clearance hole size from 5/16 to 5/32
I. Fix Screw Size not seen on some tablets/phones

Sorry for all the display errors – I made a program change to the display size calculation (density) in particular and that hosed up how the layouts form.  Some folks saw no changes others saw big changes or even crashes.  All my fault and sorry for the trouble. Version 1.5.9d has testing on several devices, Note 3, Atrix, Nexus One, Kindle Fire to ensure fixes are covered.

Thanks,
~Jim

Machine Screws Drill/Tap Info v1.5.5 update released!

Android app on Google Play

[Release]

Machine Screws Drill/Tap Info Version 1.5.5 update is released!

Changes addresses user requests to:

A. Reduce progress bar displaying.
Progress Bar now only loads:
1. when app starts
2. when screw types are changed

B. Remove/disable splash screen
Splash Screen and Sound now disabled at start (to enable see settings)
Confirmation On Exit now disabled at start (to enable see settings)

C. General bug fixes/code clean up

Thanks,
~Jim

Machine Screws Drill/Tap Info Version 1.5.3 Update

Android app on Google Play

[APP UPDATE]

Machine Screws Drill/Tap Info Version 1.5.3 released recently – so check Google Play for an update. This is an important update, fixes a minor issue/crash seen when changing orientation while a dialog box is shown.

Version 1.5.3 Update:
– Crash during rotation while dialog showing fixed
– Added 15/16-12 UN screw, fixed 15/16-16 UN & 15/16-28 UN sizes
– Added missing 9/16-24, 15/16-20, 1-1/16 -18, 1-3/16 -18, 1-7/16 -18,
1 -9/16 -18, 1-5/8 -18, & 1-11/16 -18 UNEF sizes
– Updated drill chart with new sizes

Thanks,
~Jim

2012 Buick Regal Short Shifter Install

Thanks to poster on rodstafford on the BuickForums.com, I was made aware of a new short shifter kit for my 2012 Buick Regal.   The kit is available from a couple sources: Opel Tuning and Bad News Racing.  I ordered mine from Opel Tuning, be sure you get the later version shown below.

This is on my 2012 Buick Regal, Turbo Premium III.  But will work on 2010 through 2012 (and some 2013’s) Models with a 6 speed manual transmission (including GS models).  Check the forum above as some newer 2013 GS models have a different kit; but, the install is similar, so be sure to read all the posts on the forum before buying and understand what you’re doing.

The install is fairly easy while the instructions note removing the battery; you really don’t need to do so if you have patience (I chose not to as I didn’t like the idea of re-programming my radio and other settings lost when pulling the battery) – YMMV.

The kit comes with the linkage arm, c-clip, and dust cover.
P1030593

P1030594

P1030596

Installation starts with the basics.  Be sure your car is parked on a flat level area.  The parking brake is set and for added safety both front wheels chalked (really don’t want the car to move when the gear shift is disconnected – so heed these precautions).  Also be sure the car has been off for a while.  Doing this with the engine bay hot means many hot surfaces (so don’t skip this step).

With that said, the next steps are putting the car in 6th gear (positions the arm for easier work) and moving the ECM away from the battery mount, just lift it vertical (note the guide slots) and set it aside (no need to unplug anything).

Note the ECM's alignment slots/ribs

Note the ECM’s alignment slots/ribs

Lay to the side & no need to disconnect.

Lay to the side & no need to disconnect.

Now you can see the stock shifter controls.

P1030605P1030606

Use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently remove the upper control line.

Use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently remove the upper control line.

Use a long handle flat heat screw driver to gently remove the lower control line.

Use a long handle flat heat screw driver to gently remove the lower control line.

Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the roller arm clip (save this this for the re-install).  The C-Clip I got with my kit as inferior to this clip, so I re-used the stock clip, YMMV.

P1030610

Now for the challenging part, the stock dust cover removal.  Drill a small hole in the dust cover then use a screw driver and slowly work it out of the stock lever.  This will take some patience; but, can be done in about 5 min or so.

P1030612

P1030611

Once you have the hole drilled, start working on removing the dust cover.

P1030613

P1030614

P1030615

As noted above, the dust cover will put up a fight to be removed. Defeat is inevitable, but these battle scars show a valiant effort!

As noted above, the dust cover will put up a fight to be removed. Defeat is inevitable, but these battle scars show a valiant effort!

P1030617

With the dust cover removed, use a deep 13 mm socket to remove the M8 Nut from the control arm.

P1030618

Be careful to not lose the bushing shown below. I found that it slipped out easy and added some slack to remove the control arm.

P1030619

My arm was on tight, use the setup below to tap it loose; nothing really hard, just a couple light taps is all I needed to break it loose.

Use a socket below the arm to keep it from moving down, and a long handle screw driver + hammer to tap the inner shaft down.

Use a socket below the arm to keep it from moving down, and a long handle screw driver + hammer to tap the inner shaft down.

Here is what the shaft looks like with the arm removed.P1030625

Here is the stock arm removed.

P1030621
P1030622

Side by side comparison…P1030624

Before installing, add some gear lube to the inner teeth of the new arm and along the roller surfaces too (will make installation easier and the arm’s action smoother too).

The teeth have an alignment detent/alignment flat, so be sure to line that up (can do this by feel).  Once lined up, work the arm down on the shaft.  Then tighten the M8 bolt back (hand tighten 1st so you don’t strip it, then tighten firmly with socket wrench).
P1030626

Re-insert the upper control arm and align the bearing.P1030627

Re-insert the stock retaining clip (it is a tight fit; but will fit).P1030628

Snap on the control lines.  Add the dust cover.  Check check the control throws.

P1030630

With everything re-assembled, time to put the ECM back in place & you’re done!

Note the ECM's alignment slots/ribs

Note the ECM’s alignment slots/ribs

Highlights:
– can be installed without removing the battery (I’m sure it is easier with it removed)
– the stock dust cap/plug is a pain to remove (but not overly hard, be patient and work at it)
– the c-clip supplied with the kit is useless, re-use the stock clip for the lever if you can
– shift throws are much shorter (I measured ~7 inch throws stock, down to ~3.5 to 4 inch with the kit installed)
– the notch like shifts become much more apparent; but, you know you’re in gear (I like the good feedback, so for some this will be a positive for others may be seen this as a negative).  I really think spending 18 months with the longer shifts has made me notice this more so YMMV.
– this upgrade is well worth the $$$ to buy and trouble to install in my opinion as the long throws felt like driving a truck, the shorter throws are now much smaller and crisp (sporty).

Overall, this install is roughly a 4 out of 10 on the hardness to do and install.  Took me about 45 min to complete (taking pictures along the way).

Be sure to leave questions & comments….

Machine Screws Drill/Tap Info Critical Update v1.5.1c

Android app on Google Play

[CRITICAL APP UPDATE]

Machine Screws Drill/Tap Info Version 1.5.1c released recently – so check Google Play for an update. This is a critical update!

This update makes minor code changes that stop some devices crashing when accessing the database.  Some 1500+ users have updated so far and [knocks on wood] no errors reported so far.

Thanks,
~Jim